Part: Part Four - Pot Odds & Hand Analysis
Make the draw pay
Pre-flop
It folds to you on the cutoff with A♣K♦. You raise and the big blind calls.
Folded to you with A♣K♦ on the cutoff. Best?
WhyRaise to open. A-K is a premium opening hand; raise for value and to take the blinds.
What happensYou raise to 500 (2.5 BB); the big blind calls. Pot: 1,200 (6 BB).
Flop
Flop: A♥ 9♥ 4♣ - you flop top pair, top kicker, but two hearts mean a flush draw is live. The big blind checks.
A flush draw is ~19% to hit the next card (~4-to-1). What sizing best denies it the right price?
WhyBet about two-thirds to full pot. A flush draw needs roughly 4-to-1 to call for one card; a 1/4-pot bet lays it 5-to-1 (a price it loves), while a 2/3-pot bet lays only ~2.5-to-1 - far worse than its ~19% deserves. Betting big enough makes the draw pay too much to continue.
What happensYou bet 900 (about 3/4 pot); the big blind calls. Pot: 3,000 (15 BB).
Turn
Turn: 2♠ - the flush misses. He checks again.
The draw bricked; you still have top pair, top kicker. Best?
WhyBet again. Your hand is best and a draw may still be peeling; a second solid bet extracts value and continues to charge any remaining draw a bad price. Checking lets a heart draw see the river for free.
What happensYou bet 2,000; he calls, the river bricks, and your top pair holds. You win.
With the best hand against a draw, you sized your bets to deny the draw correct odds - a big enough bet that a ~19% flush draw was overpaying - and kept charging it until it missed. Protection is just pot odds used in reverse.
When you hold the best hand against a draw, bet enough that the draw is paying more than its equity is worth - deny it the correct price.